Hot shoe flash

I just received my very first hot shoe flash and I spent last evening experimenting. It's really powerful!! I was bouncing the thing off of everything: walls, my body, the curtains, ceilings, pillows, etc. My first couple of shots ended up pure white  Tongue but I eventually got it so the lighting was perfect. I can't wait to try it on an actual human. Grin I found that having it pointing straight up gave me some really nice results on the objects I was shooting. The "facing backwards" flash photos were always too dark. More practice needed... Smiley
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Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

What flash did you get?
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Specifications

Brand:  BOWER ZBIS-92Mi Electronic Flash
Guide # ( ISO100 / 21 ) ft: S ( 50 ) : 92
Mode : TTL Auto w/ Infrared Focus Program
Auto Range : 2.9 ~ 29.0 ft
AF Illumination : 2.9 ~ 26.0 ft
Zoom Head : 28 - 35 - 50 - 85mm
Angle Of Coverage : Horizontal 60° , Vertical 45° ( At 28mm Wide Angle Lens )
Bounce Angle : 0° - 90°
Swivel Angle : 0°- 330°
Color Temperature : 5600° k
Recycling Time : 0.5 ~ 7 sec. ( With Alkaline Batteries )
Power Source : 4 x 1.5V AA Batteries
Number Of Flashes : 200 w/ Alkaline Batteries
Auto - Confirmation Lamp
Dimensions : 6.6" H x 2.75" W x 1.9" D
Net Weight (w/o batteries) : 7.8 oz.
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Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

If you find your flash is taking forever to recycle change batteries for fresh ones.   - Just a tip I could have used when I got my first flash, lol, I was too dumb to realize the reason why it was getting slower and slower.
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I shoot with 2gig cards at about a hundred twenty shots per card. when a card gets close to needing to be changed, I change card and flash batteries. If you ever shoot an event make sure you can put batteries in your flash with your eye's closed. (you may be in the dark when the stage lights go off)

rechargeable batteries are cheap enough to have several sets (the little number XXXXmAh on the side, get 2100 or better)
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"I get up every morning determined to both change the world and have one heck of a good time. Sometimes this makes planning my day difficult. "- EB White

Chattanooga Photographer www.BobEdens.com

If you ever shoot an event make sure you can put batteries in your flash with your eye's closed.

Good advice, make sure you know by heart which way those batteries go in (positive and negative side).
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The hardest thing I ever had to do at a wedding was not freaking out when a lightstand fell right before I started doing formals and the red IR cover cracked.  I was fairly calm as I walked back to my bag and grabbed my backup, but my mind was racing.  After that changing batteries is easy  Grin
« Last Edit: January 09, 2008, 07:59:49 PM by Ryan Nutt »
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Oh, I have my fair share of horror stories at weddings, including leaving all my memory cards at home!!!  I found an electronics store in plenty of time.  Thankfully all of my mistakes and accidents have ended okay, but the stress almost kills me.
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Thanks everyone! I used it for my latest portrait shoot and it worked great! I mostly bounced it off the ceiling and it really helped. I can now go down to 100-200ISO instead of 400-800! Yay!
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Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

Here's a tip for you!  Big Grin

The best bounce flash results will be achieved when the flash is aimed at the ceiling (ahead of you) at around 45 degrees. This method is sometimes called partial bounce because just a bit of raw light will hit the subject. Aiming the flash directly up at the ceiling will oftentimes cause deep shadows to form under the eyes of your subjects sometimes to the extent where the light fails illuminates the eyes themselves- this makes folks look tired or sinister and adds "bags" under the eyes.  Just a bit of light striking the eyes make all the difference.

Some photographers aim the light directly at the ceiling but attach a smell tea spoon or a fill card to the rim of the flash head to direct just a spot of light into the eyes.

If a ceiling is not available or is dark in color or too high- it is best to use a small light modifier over the flash head and aim it directly at the subject- there are dozens of theses gadgets on the market that will diffuse One brand  is "Light Dome".  Look up Gary Fong (Photographer) on the net- he is a highly successful wedding photographer who has a line of nice accessories for flash photography.

With the right kind of diffusion, you flash unit can be used very effectively as a fill light for available light and outdoor work.

If you budget and desires allow- pick up a second flash and use it off camera via a radio slave- super results can be achieved with multiple flash setups.

Good luck on your new gear and I hope this helps.

Ed

 
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Ed Shapiro
The Hintonburg Studio
Suite 201  78 Hinton Avenue North
Ottawa, Ontario CANADA  K1Y 0Z8
613-792-4837    Email:  edshapiro@rogers.com