Reply #5 - April 06, 2007, 06:15:17 AM
Anyhow, I'm really trying to get the concept of placement of lights so that i have no cross, lighting as the pic below shows.
In your example above, it doesn't really bother me too much. The look is like they are sitting at a bus station or mall with light bouncing off of different buildings lighting, structure or shiny objects - at different angles, maybe a little direct sun light hitting them - that type of thing. If as it appears, you are going after a commercial fashion type feel with this shot and have a specific look of what I have described in mind, conventional portrait lighting is not going to necessarily provide you with the look you are after.
Back to your question about how you stop the cross lighting and resulting cross shadows - - - you keep all light coming from one side or direction related to your subject. and your fill light is directly above and/or behind the camera and is as large a source as possible. I remember years ago going to a wedding with a photographer who had a set "SAFE" method of placing 2 studio strobes equadistant from the subject (about 10 to 12 feet away) - with one strobe on each side of the camera at around 45 degrees. One strobe was powered down by one stop to act as a fill light. Everything was lit well, but the look was harsh (because of the distance creating a small source of light, and the 30 inch silver umbrellas) - plus there were the cross shadows.
Even in Commercial model photography you will generally see one large main light source to one side, above the camera, or wrapped around the lens (if a large ring light or other custom contraption) - and any other flash units you see will be accent lights for backgrounds. If there are suplimental lights hitting the subject, they will be controlled and coming from an obtuse angle (90 degrees or more) and are either accenting or providing side fill which do not cast objectionable or overly visible shadows on the subject or the viewable setting - if placed properly and powered properly. One reason you can use a reflector to the side of the subject (obtuse angle) when shooting closeup, is because the angles of the reflected light and resulting shadows do not conflict with the main light. Move the reflector to the front of the subject and you will have problem shadows to deal with (unless you know from experience how to control them - or want them for effect).
For most normally shooting conditions, keep lighting simple. From the perspective of the how the subject is being lit, think of
one source of main light just as with the sun outdoors - and a
large soft fill light like the large sky outdoors or a large concrete building behind the camera that would kick light into the subject for an unnoticed but essential fill. As soon as you put an additional light in the mix, you are creating a second source if it is not controlled properly - - - which may be exactly what you are after, but in most likelihood not.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2007, 06:43:49 AM by robertwatcher »

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