[Lauren Silcock]

I'm going to be shooting in a park on friday, and in the past, when I've done "portraits" outside, I'd use automatic and just consentrate on the composition, but I'd like to start shooting on manual. I know what F-stops and shutter speeds are and how they balance out, but I don't know how to use them to create the picture that I want. Does anyone have any thoughts on how I can control the picture with the settings? And how should I use the flash and reflectors (if at all)?

Thanks for any comments you have! I hope my question is clear enough.

[Ginnypenny]

Wow...  That's actually a big complex question.
First of all, you have to know what to set your camera at.  You don't just pick settings.  Do you have a light meter?

You mentioned using the settings to get what you want.  What do you want?  Just good exposure?  You can use a grey card to get the right settings in the light you are shooting in.  Do you want to control your depth of field to blur the background and make your subject stand out.  You can do that in aperture priority mode which will let the camera pick the matching shutter speed.  Do you want specific lighting effects?  You should, good portrait lighting is available outdoors, check out Benji's latest post. 

Using flash outdoors is all about balancing ambient light with artificial light.  Are you trying to compensate for low light?  or trying to just get light in their eyes?

Reflectors are an art.  I mainly use them to lighten the shadow side, similar to a fill light. 

Is this what you are looking for?  I think practice is crucial when using outdoor light.  The scenario and lighting are always different.

[Lauren Silcock]

Wow...  That's actually a big complex question.
First of all, you have to know what to set your camera at.  You don't just pick settings.  Do you have a light meter?

You mentioned using the settings to get what you want.  What do you want?  Just good exposure?  You can use a grey card to get the right settings in the light you are shooting in.  Do you want to control your depth of field to blur the background and make your subject stand out.  You can do that in aperture priority mode which will let the camera pick the matching shutter speed.  Do you want specific lighting effects?  You should, good portrait lighting is available outdoors, check out Benji's latest post. 

Using flash outdoors is all about balancing ambient light with artificial light.  Are you trying to compensate for low light?  or trying to just get light in their eyes?

Reflectors are an art.  I mainly use them to lighten the shadow side, similar to a fill light. 

Is this what you are looking for?  I think practice is crucial when using outdoor light.  The scenario and lighting are always different.

The light meter was a good idea...I'd totally spaced on that one. Blurring the background is something I've been trying to get down, and I can't seem to make it work right...I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I'm not even sure what I've tried.
I think I mostly just want to make sure that they don't look like snapshots.

[Ginnypenny]

Blurring the background - Narrow depth of field (or only one plane of the image being in focus) is caused by two things, either a large aperture opening (small f-stop number) or a long lens or both.  To get a good headshot with a blurred background go as far back as you can and zoom in.  You shoot with an SLR right?  You should see the effect through the lens.

Portrait vs. Snapshot - Key things to watch for are background, posing and lighting.  Snapshots have distracting elements in the background, bright spots of light, other people, cars, or just plain distracting and busy backgrounds.  Portraits generally have backgrounds that compliment the subject without taking any attention away.  Posing is refined in a portrait.  Watch the placement of awkward things like hands.  If you haven't already get a book on posing and learn the basics.  Studio posing and outdoor posing are slightly different because of the props, but the rules are the same.
Lighting in a portrait is of high quality.  You can either find good lighting and position your subject just right or manipulate the existing light with reflectors to either bounce light on the subject or subtract light by blocking it.  You can experiment with fill flash, but be aware it usually produces flat light unless you get it off camera with a cable or radio controlled flashes.

The biggest thing I have to focus on is making it about my subject and not the pretty backdrop.  I find a gorgeous area and try and incorporate the person, that's backwards and I am working on it.

[Mike Hodgson]

If you are going the journalistic route, think of it as this
How many different positions can you capture the subject without having them move or even being aware they are photographed.

I liken it as "Wildlife" photograph without spooking your subject, now, comes in Susie's suggestions, background, distractions, lighting etc. so, again, how many different positions can you capture your subject.?

In a busy situations like weddings, many shoot in "AV" that is, Aperture priority, YOU decide the DOF, the cam decides the speed.

Know your sunny 16 rule and take it from there.

[Ginnypenny]

Know your sunny 16 rule and take it from there.

Or better yet, shoot in the shade.  Seriously, open shade is the easiest to shoot in.  Just make sure your subject has plenty of light in their eyes.  Use a reflector or watch their position.

I like Mike's suggestion of the shooting them like they are wildlife.  Just make sure you are getting their best angles

[Mike Hodgson]

"Or better yet, shoot in the shade."

And what does it say in the sunny 16 rule, for shade?   

Bright sun on beach or snow Close 1 f /stop
Normal Bright Sun Sunny 16 Rule
Hazy sun, soft shadows Open 1 f /stop
Cloudy bright, no shadows Open 2 f /stops
Open shade, no sun Open 3 f /stops
Heavy overcast Open 3 f /stops

Knowing your scales, aperture and shutter, will help in your "Stops"

[Ginnypenny]

Of course, that nice little scale is in multiple textbooks from my school days.

I tend toward larger apertures for headshots and closing it up for full lengths that incorporate the scenery all in the same lighting.  So there is some flexiblity there.

[Lauren Silcock]

Know your sunny 16 rule and take it from there.

What is the sunny 16 rule?

[Ginnypenny]

Mike posted it.  It means that if you are shooting in the bright sun to set your aperture at F16.  Open your aperture wider for shade, etc.  It's a pretty good guideline.  I wouldn't, however, suggest shooting portraits in the bright sun.  It can be done, but you are probably going to get better results shooting in open shade or in the early morning or late evening.

[BobEdens]

Know your sunny 16 rule and take it from there.

What is the sunny 16 rule?

Set aperture to f/16 and shutter speed to ISO film speed.
orrrr
if your ISO is 100, set your shutter speed to 1/100 second and your aperture to f16

google it for a bazillion explanations

[Mike Hodgson]

If you know your scales, it would be 100 ISO  1/125 @ F16
200 ISO 1/250 @F16
400 ISO 1/500 @F16

So, now that everyone knows it, hopefully we will not see blowouts right, wedding dresses, right, or how about background blowouts, right. We'll see.   

[Ginnypenny]

If you know your scales, it would be 100 ISO  1/125 @ F16
200 ISO 1/250 @F16
400 ISO 1/500 @F16

So, now that everyone knows it, hopefully we will not see blowouts right, wedding dresses, right, or how about background blowouts, right. We'll see.   

Right, but we will see harsh shadows and dark faces 

EDIT: Just trying to cause trouble....

[Marian Murdoch]

If you know your scales, it would be 100 ISO  1/125 @ F16
200 ISO 1/250 @F16
400 ISO 1/500 @F16

So, now that everyone knows it, hopefully we will not see blowouts right, wedding dresses, right, or how about background blowouts, right. We'll see.   

Right, but we will see harsh shadows and dark faces 

EDIT: Just trying to cause trouble....

[Mike Hodgson]

Interesting, post em' let's see