Photographing flying birds, planes, etc

Pages [1] 2
I seldom succeed when trying to photograph something flying. I've tried continuous focus and today I tried manual focus:
Attachments
This post contains 2 attachments, but as a guest you cannot view attachments. Signing up at PhotoArtsForum will allow you to view attachments and post your own messages. If you already are a member at PhotoArtsForum please login.
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

Planes:
Attachments
This post contains 3 attachments, but as a guest you cannot view attachments. Signing up at PhotoArtsForum will allow you to view attachments and post your own messages. If you already are a member at PhotoArtsForum please login.
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

pretty good. Jets are hard to make look like they are moving. With props the trick is to not freeze the prop but blur it a bit.

Logged

-----------------------------------
"I get up every morning determined to both change the world and have one heck of a good time. Sometimes this makes planning my day difficult. "- EB White

Chattanooga Photographer www.BobEdens.com

Get to know the lens sweet spot, f/8.0
90 % of the time, shooting wildlife and planes etc. compensate the speed.
Anything above 600 for moving subjects HAND HELD, @300MM
Logged


Get to know the lens sweet spot, f/8.0
90 % of the time, shooting wildlife and planes etc. compensate the speed.
Anything above 600 for moving subjects HAND HELD, @300MM

Doesn't the sweet spot depend on the lens? For example, I've heard that my 50mm f/1.4 lens has a sweet spot of around 2.
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org


Doesn't the sweet spot depend on the lens? For example, I've heard that my 50mm f/1.4 lens has a sweet spot of around 2.

I thought the sweet spot was a myth like the g-spot.  Have I made this stupid joke before?  I am having deja vu.
Logged


F4

No, it's not a joke or myth. G spot? you haven't found it yet?   Big Grin

Marian's 300mm zoom is f8

Maybe something like this


Attachments
This post contains 1 attachment, but as a guest you cannot view attachments. Signing up at PhotoArtsForum will allow you to view attachments and post your own messages. If you already are a member at PhotoArtsForum please login.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2008, 09:42:25 AM by Mike Hodgson »
Logged


Or this


Attachments
This post contains 1 attachment, but as a guest you cannot view attachments. Signing up at PhotoArtsForum will allow you to view attachments and post your own messages. If you already are a member at PhotoArtsForum please login.
Logged


Could be something like this


Attachments
This post contains 1 attachment, but as a guest you cannot view attachments. Signing up at PhotoArtsForum will allow you to view attachments and post your own messages. If you already are a member at PhotoArtsForum please login.
Logged


I hate you.





Grin
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

Mike, you show off!!  Big Grin

Marian,  He is right.  You need to compensate for both hand-holding and the motion of the subject with your shutter speed.  Mike may make it look easy, but he has practiced this a lot also, right Mike?  You need to keep practicing, try to stick around f/8 like has been said, it worked wonders for me when I got the same suggestion from the same person.  It may also be worth considering getting a monopod.  One other thing, when you can, use a lower ISO.  The noise will make otherwise sharp images appear soft as well.

One other thing, and I almost hate to bring it up, but what lens are you using?  I am pretty certain that Mike's glass is pretty high end.  It will be tough to match sharpness with him if you are using a much cheaper telephoto lens.  I hate to mention this because you need to be able to get the best out of the lens you have before you go out and spend a bunch of money that may not fix your problem, but it is a consideration for your future.  I had a Quantaray 70-300 for a couple years and couldn't get sharp photos at the long end of the zoom ever; I tried everything that was suggested to me, eventually I got a different lens and my images instantly became better.  You just need to be as sure as you can be that the lens is the issue before making a purchase so you aren't dissatisfied with your new one when you get it and find out it wasn't actually the lens.

Per your EXIF, at least on the planes and helicopter, I would think your shutter speed is too slow as Mike suggested.  On the birds, probably you were off with your manual focus.  I would suggest to keep practicing with the continuous auto focus modes on your camera.  Get out your manual and read up on it so you know how its supposed to work and keep practicing.  Also, I am again going to ask you what you have done on your edits, because if they were underexposed to begin with and you have tried to pull the details back out, you can deteriorate an image really quickly and cause some soft and noisy results like you have here.  Something to think about.

Travis
Logged


You need to compensate for both hand-holding and the motion of the subject with your shutter speed.  try to stick around f/8 like has been said.  One other thing, when you can, use a lower ISO.

To recap:
Fast shutter speed
F/8
Low ISO

When did I move to the sunny part of the world again? Wink 

Quote
One other thing, and I almost hate to bring it up, but what lens are you using?

Why do you hate to bring it up? I'm not proud. Grin It's a Sony Sigma f/5.6-? 75-300mm lens. Cheap, around $240. I didn't want to spend the big bucks until I was certain I was going to use it enough to warrant the price. Smiley

Quote
Also, I am again going to ask you what you have done on your edits, because if they were underexposed to begin with and you have tried to pull the details back out, you can deteriorate an image really quickly and cause some soft and noisy results like you have here. 

Oops. I thought I answered that. I shoot in RAW and change the exposure in the RAW processing page before opening it.

Thanks for the tips! Can't wait to give it another try. Smiley
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

Quote
Why do you hate to bring it up? I'm not proud.

Oh, I'm not worried about hurting your feelings (that sounded bad) Smiley.  Really though, all I meant was that I didn't want to steer anyone into buying equipment that may not be the problem.  Oftentimes photographers think the solve all is new stuff, and it isn't always the case.

OK, let's go over your exposures:
U1 & U2 - 1/1000s f/16 ISO400  =  1/1000s f/8 ISO100  (pretty close to what's been suggested, I think)
plane1  - 1/300s  f/13 ISO100  =  1/750s  f/8 ISO100
plane2  - 1/125s  f/16 ISO100  =  1/500s  f/8 ISO100
copter1 - same as above

So you can have upwards of 1/600s as was suggested with f/8 and ISO100 at your current light levels.

There is one other concern though.  According to the Sunny 16 Rule (I know you like it) you should be giving one more stop of exposure in overcast situations, right?  That means that u1&u2 are underexposed by 2 stops; plane1, plane2, and copter1 are at least one stop under if not a 1 1/3 under.  RAW or not, if you don't get the proper exposure, you don't have the full amount of detail in the image.  RAW is better at preserving details and information than JPEG, but it is not a solution for poor exposure.  Keep working on your exposures, you will soon find that there is a world of difference in the final image when you get it right.

I know this is easier said than done, but keep working on it and practicing.  You have a great eye for great art; as soon as you get this technical stuff down to second nature you will begin to really enjoy photography more than you do even now.  Success precedes success.

Travis
Logged


U1 1/1000s f/16 ISO400  =  1/1000s f/8 ISO100  (pretty close to what's been suggested, I think
That means that u1&u2 are underexposed by 2 stops

Exposure Compensation:1/-2 according to my EXIF.

Thanks for the compliment about my eye for art. That made my day. Smiley

LOL @ the comment about me liking the sunny 16 rule. Wink

This is what stinks about being self-taught, there are huge gaps in my learning. But it's also challenging in a good way. I'm not one to cover up my failings with excuses, I just want to learn. Smiley
« Last Edit: May 27, 2008, 04:15:16 PM by wildmaven »
Logged

Comments and Harsh Critiques gladly accepted. My photos are ok to edit.

My photos and art: http://wildmaven.org

So..., you're underexposing an already underexposed image?

No failings here, just learning hopefully.

Travis
Logged


Pages [1] 2
Top of Page